Problems

These are just a few of the difficulties that I encountered while working on this project.

August, 2018

Everytime that I start the car now, it runs well for the first 5 to 10 seconds, then it goes all to crap!

 

 

I decided to take the fuel pump apart.

On close inspection, I noticed that there was a missing rotor vane and the rotor was not centered. It also would not come out.

 

There should be 4 rotor vanes, not 3. I ordered a new fuel pump! Hopefully this will solve the problem.

 

 

 

February 1, 2018

When I finally got the car home, I decided to start it to get the oil moving. The temperature gauge increased very quickly, so I shut the engine off. I thought it might be low on coolant, so I started to add water. The water immediately poured out at the rear of the motor. Upon closer inspection, I discovered that the rear frost plug was missing!

The missing frost plug is just above the starter. I will have to take the starter off to install the plug! I went to Competition Engine on Portage Avenue and the guy gave me 2 frost plugs for $2.00.

 

February 10, 2014

When I installed the gas tank (about a year ago), I created a problem of my own doing. I neglected to install the rubber gasket and all the screws that connect the spout to the tank (what was I thinking). As a result whenever I poured gas in the tank, it would leak out between the spout and the tank.

I decided to attempt to fix the problem by lowering the tank, disconnecting the existing screws, and install the gasket - all with about 5 gallons of gas in the tank and without disconnecting any gas lines.

I found that because of the angle of the spout, I could only insert the bottom bolt when the spout was about 1/2 of an inch from the tank. It was a slow and successful operation.

        

I reconnected the spout to the fender and the air discharge line and raised the tank back up and re-attached the braces. It was very hard to work with the in-flexibility of the gas tank rubber hose.

 

November 6, 2013

When I am idling the motor and increase the RPMs, all hell breaks loose!

I tried it with all the belts off (no A/C, alternator, water pump, or power steering pump) and it did the same thing!

See the 2 videos of the noise here - video

Apparently the people who dropped the motor into the frame did not connect the torque converter to the flywheel and neglected to tell me! I went to Seven Oaks Transmission and got the proper bolts to connect the torque converter. Worked fine after that!

 

July 9, 2013

When I tried to connect the linkage for my steering column, I found that the steel steering shaft hit the header. I needed to increase the length of my steering column by adding 8 inches of 3/4" DD shaft in the hollow part of the column shaft then adding a 3/4" DD to 3/4" DD u-joint, another 3/4" DD shaft and finally the u-joint on the rack.

 

July 7, 2013

I originally purchased a Borgeson steel vibration universal joint for my steering linkage that had a spline to 3/4" double D conversion (about 2 years ago). Upon further inspection of my Heidts rack and pinion, I found that I required a Mustang "V" to 3/4" DD u-joint. The Mustang "V" rack is very seldom used and even Mike at Sandales was surprised at the setup.

I ended up purchasing a chrome Unisteer u-joint (8050300) from Sandales for the rack end of my steering linkage setup.

        

When I installed it , I found that I had a clearance problem with the IFS cross-member as shown in the pictures above.