Problems

These are just a few of the recent difficulties that I encountered while working on this project.

 

September, 2018

The trunk handle and lock

These pictures show the original trunk lock mechanism and the pieces required to install it.

        

I purchased a new lock cylinder with key on EBAY, but when it arrived I found that the shaft was shorter than the original.

 

I figured out how to change the shaft and copied an extra GM key. I also discovered that the key does not come out when unlocked! I searched on Google and am still not sure that this is proper operation. I found a youtube video on how to change the lock:

Near the end of the video, he filed off the gold bar to allow the key to be taken out. Does this really work?

 

 

 

The picture above shows the only position of the lock where the key can be removed.

 

 

The picture above shows a second problem with the shaft. The handle turns without the smaller shaft turning. It seems the chrome or welding gave way (in the red circle). We tried putting a pin in the shaft (the shiny circle), but it did not hold. Can this part be welded???

The answer is no. The shaft can not be welded because the handle is pot metal and the shaft is steel. I visited a friend and he mixed some airplane glue together and put it on the shaft.

These pictures show the handle shaft with the glue applied.

 

The airplane glue held for all of 5 seconds. I took the handle to Anything Custom on Waverley and had them silver solder the steel shaft to the handle. That held for 5 minutes before it let go. I next had the welder mig weld 2 bumps on each side of the steel shaft. That seems to hold for now!

These pictures show the handle shaft with the 2 bumps on each side welded on!.

 

        

Top radiator hose

The top radiator hose leaked at the rad end. I tried tightning it and tried chaging the inside rubber but I could not stop the leak as shown in the video below:

 

I never noticed the leak before because the radiator was never filled to the top! I ended up changing the entire hose with a regular rubber hose. This stopped the leak.

 

 

 

August, 2018

Everytime that I start the car now, it runs well for the first 5 to 10 seconds, then it goes all to crap!

 

I decided to take the fuel pump apart.

 

On close inspection, I noticed that there was a missing rotor vane and the rotor was not centered. It also would not come out.

 

There should be 4 rotor vanes, not 3. I ordered a new fuel pump! Hopefully this will solve the problem.

 

The car is back to running great with a new fuel pump!

 

 

February 1, 2018

When I finally got the car home, I decided to start it to get the oil moving. The temperature gauge increased very quickly, so I shut the engine off. I thought it might be low on coolant, so I started to add water. The water immediately poured out at the rear of the motor. Upon closer inspection, I discovered that the rear frost plug was missing!

The missing frost plug is just above the starter. I will have to take the starter off to install the plug! I went to Competition Engine on Portage Avenue and the guy gave me 2 frost plugs for $2.00.

 

February 10, 2014

When I installed the gas tank (about a year ago), I created a problem of my own doing. I neglected to install the rubber gasket and all the screws that connect the spout to the tank (what was I thinking). As a result whenever I poured gas in the tank, it would leak out between the spout and the tank.

I decided to attempt to fix the problem by lowering the tank, disconnecting the existing screws, and install the gasket - all with about 5 gallons of gas in the tank and without disconnecting any gas lines.

I found that because of the angle of the spout, I could only insert the bottom bolt when the spout was about 1/2 of an inch from the tank. It was a slow and successful operation.

        

I reconnected the spout to the fender and the air discharge line and raised the tank back up and re-attached the braces. It was very hard to work with the in-flexibility of the gas tank rubber hose.

 

November 6, 2013

When I am idling the motor and increase the RPMs, all hell breaks loose!

I tried it with all the belts off (no A/C, alternator, water pump, or power steering pump) and it did the same thing!

See the 2 videos of the noise here - video

Apparently the people who dropped the motor into the frame did not connect the torque converter to the flywheel and neglected to tell me! I went to Seven Oaks Transmission and got the proper bolts to connect the torque converter. Worked fine after that!

 

July 9, 2013

When I tried to connect the linkage for my steering column, I found that the steel steering shaft hit the header. I needed to increase the length of my steering column by adding 8 inches of 3/4" DD shaft in the hollow part of the column shaft then adding a 3/4" DD to 3/4" DD u-joint, another 3/4" DD shaft and finally the u-joint on the rack.

 

July 7, 2013

I originally purchased a Borgeson steel vibration universal joint for my steering linkage that had a spline to 3/4" double D conversion (about 2 years ago). Upon further inspection of my Heidts rack and pinion, I found that I required a Mustang "V" to 3/4" DD u-joint. The Mustang "V" rack is very seldom used and even Mike at Sandales was surprised at the setup.

I ended up purchasing a chrome Unisteer u-joint (8050300) from Sandales for the rack end of my steering linkage setup.

        

When I installed it , I found that I had a clearance problem with the IFS cross-member as shown in the pictures above.